Shop Doc

Shop Doc: Micro Beginnings

Dear Shop Doc,

I have recently been asked if my shop does “micro” machining. I’ve done some work on small
parts recently, but I’m not exactly sure what is meant by “micro.” Any thoughts?

Small Beginnings

Dear Small Beginnings,


One of the problems with the term “micro” is that it is often used to defne a very small portion of a wide array of categories. Maybe you’ve been to a microbrewery or have a computer that uses a microprocessor. In each case, the prefx or adjective “micro” defnes a small-scale or very small feature of the original term. To date, the term is loosely used in machining to refer either to the exact measurement of the parts, such as in microns, or to a small range of work, in the neighborhood of 1 mm or less.

In May 2010, I posed a similar question to exhibitors and attendees at MM Live—the Micro and Precision Manufacturing Event for North America, in Cincinnati, Ohio. As an exhibitor myself, I thought micro meant sizes under .050”, as this was the smallest tool in our catalog and very near to the 1 mm dimension. I often referred to parts from this diameter up to .500” diameter as Swiss, so everything smaller I considered micro. A large number of attendees defned micro as being smaller than a certain dimension.

Some said micro meant parts smaller than 8 mm or .250”, or 1 mm. Kyocera’s booth advertised a .250” dimension on their sign. However, when I asked them about it, they explained that although they make a wide variety of small tools, the ones they considered to be micro sized were really those .125” or smaller.

Photo from JMMedical

A few attendees believed the term “micro” referred to parts that were smaller than the human eye can see. The MM Live show had a wide of variety of these parts on display, and it seemed that every other booth had a microscope or magnifer of some type to help you see their wares. One of the most intriguing answers to defne micro came from an exhibitor at Makuta Technics Inc. He said they use the term micro not to refer to a part’s size, but more exclusively to the feature’s size. You may have a part not considered to be a micro machined part, but if the features and tolerances are small enough, it may require what is commonly known as micro machining. This can lead to a lengthy discussion about tolerance, and if a part with +/-.001” variance can be classifed the same as a part with +/-.000010”.

I believe micro machining refers to parts with an overall size or feature in the neighborhood of 1 mm. The features are not as large as common Swiss machined parts, nor as small as a nanometer (one billionth of a meter), but you will still need some form of glasses to make out the details. My suggestion is to not split hairs, but just state the size of the features you are comfortable making. The number of people who agree on the defnition of the term “micro” is very small.

Peter Bagwell
Slater Tools Inc.

Peter Bagwell is an engineer at Slater Tools Inc. in Clinton Township, Mich., which specializes in rotary broaching tools.

Shop Doc – Tangled Up in Tennessee

Today’s Machining World Archive: April 2010 Vol. 6, Issue 03

Dear Shop Doc,

We are running a long aluminum part on our CNC Swiss and have problems with the long stringy chips building up in the machine and getting wrapped around the part. We’ve tried every “aluminum” insert under the sun and have 2,000 psi coolant, but nothing works. Please help!

Tangled Up in Tennessee

Dear Tangled,

There is a new chip control technology for aluminum that I’ve found to be very effective. It’s a PCD (polycrystalline diamond) insert that has a 3D chipbreaker. Up until now, manufacturers have been unable to produce 3D chipbreakers in the ultra-hard polycrystalline diamond material. A new process has been developed that uses a laser to etch a variety of 3D chipbreaker shapes into the PCD. The inserts are made by Becker Diamont.

They have a video on YouTube that can be found at: www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLRJdMDvbpY. A brochure can be downloaded at: www.ranitool.com/ChipBreaker-ranilowres.pdf.

On a Swiss I’ve found that it’s the feed rate that is critical to getting the chip to break. In general, a larger depth of cut requires a slightly higher feed rate. On a fixed headstock lathe, you can also vary the depth of cut and the feed rate for optimum results.

Other possible solutions include milling a flat or narrow slot along the length of the cut before turning. I prefer to use a narrow slotting saw to cut an off-center slot along the turn length. A narrow slot has less chance of generating an out-of-round condition on the turned diameters. Milling the slot off of the centerline of the work prevents the slot from hitting the turning insert squarely. The slot being off center along with the rotation of the work causes the slot to hit the insert and travel by it on an angle. This eliminates any pounding caused by the interruption while providing enough interruption to break the chip.

Problems with grooving and cutoff tools can often be solved by using a peck cycle like G75, which is like a peck drilling cycle, but from the cross axis rather than along the Z-axis.

Ultimately these other options add cycle time while the PCD insert will likely reduce cycle time and improve uptime.

You will pay more for PCD, but it almost always costs less than a polished carbide insert due to the vastly improved tool life.

Another added benefit is that once you start breaking the chips up, you won’t have to empty out the chip bin nearly as often. Those long wiry chips create big air pockets that take up a lot of space.

Dan Murphy
Tsugami REM Sales

Dan Murphy is a regional sales manager for REM Sales LLC., a U.S. Tsugami distributor. He can be reached at dmurphy@remsales.com.

Shop Doc – Off-Center

Today’s Machining World Archive: October 2006 Vol.2, Issue 10

Dear Shop Doc,

In our shop, we have a debate as to what type of tool is the most effective for centering a drill. Is it a spot drill or center drill? Since both of the choices are available in several different angles, what influence does the angle have on centering the drill or anything else, such as tool life? We have had mixed results from a variety of these tools. Please help us choose the tool that will give us the best centering and life of a drill.

Signed, Off-Center

Dear Off-Center,

This is a very common issue and is easily explained. A center drill doesn’t do anything to center a drill. It’s made to leave a centering feature in a part so a live center or dead center can be located into its corresponding angle and be used in some sort of supporting application like a tail stock in a lathe.

A spot drill has a better chance of centering your drill, but only if the included angle of the spot drill is greater (blunter) than the drill’s included point angle. A great example of this is a 120° spot drill and a 118° drill point. The spot drill is 1° blunter on each side, allowing the drill’s point to reach the spot drill’s point before anything else comes into contact, such as the corners of the drill or the lip of the drill.

The problem with this is that many drills on the market today have drill points of 135°, 140° or even greater. So in order for this theory to work properly, a 145° spot drill needs to be used so the drill point makes contact fi rst, thus centering the drill in the most effective manner.

A center drill actually has two incorrect angles to deal with. One angle is from the pilot, and the other angle is what the center drill is measured at or known by, such as a 90° center drill, which eventually leaves a 45° chamfer per side once the hole is drilled. Tool life suffers greatly when using a 90° center drill or a 90° spot drill with an incorrect angle. If you want a chamfered hole, chamfer it with a chamfer tool after the proper spot drill and drill are fi nished. By following these simple steps you will see drills lasting longer, and the holes will be more accurately located, straighter and rounder.

Jim Rowe
Application Specialists / Medical Accounts
Mahar Tool Supply, Warsaw, IN


Shop Doc – Chips

Today’s Machining World Archive: October 2005 Vol.1, Issue 08

Dear Shop Doc:

We are an aerospace company in California running Aluminum 6061-T6, generating 100,000 pounds of chip waste per month. We work in eight to twelve hour shifts, seven days a week. We use 10-weight hydraulic oil with sulfur added, paying $4.50 per gallon. Right now we are disposing of our chips in bins, and selling them wet to a scrap metal dealer for .40 per pound. The chip waste is machined in “6’s and 9’s,” curls for the most part. We have 500-square feet of floor space available for handling the scrap (not heated).

How can we consolidate our chips to get the highest resale value for them? Would we maximize the value of our scrap by using a briquetting system? Or is simply spinning the chips a better option? We also want to know the best method for recovering coolant for both economic and environmental reasons.

CHIPS

Dear CHIPS:

I contacted three manufacturers: Meaden Precision Machined Products of Burr
Ridge, IL, Manth Brownell of Kirkville, NY, and Curtis Screw of Buffalo, NY, to see
how they disposed of their aluminum chips. All three use centrifuges to spin the oil
out of the chips, rather than using briquetting systems, which compact chips into
solid pucks, which are easier to store, leave little residual oil, and can sometimes
bring considerably more money than loose chips. I tried to find out why these
three manufacturers dispose of their chip waste the way they do, and if there is a
better way.

Wes Skinner of Manth Brownell said he receives, from a scrap dealer, about fifty cents per pound for a mixture of aluminum 6061 and 6262. According to American Metal Market, aluminum scrap sells for 55-56 cents per pound; Skinner says he receives a bit less than the market price because there is still about 2% of the oil remaining in the chips after he spins them. He also recovers oil after the chips are spun, which can save significant money.

I also contacted an aluminum broker/ingot producer in California, who wanted to remain anonymous (all aluminum brokers I talked to wanted to remain anonymous), to find out if they prefer pucks to chips. He refused to quote me a price on aluminum scrap, like every aluminum broker refused, but he told me that his company does not pay a premium for pucks because it is difficult to know if the metal is pure.

Then I called PuckMaster, a company that manufactures briquetting equipment, and Prab Inc., a company that makes both centrifuging machines for drying chips and briquetting equipment. Tim Sernett, National Sales Manager at PuckMaster, said that in puck form (produced from the PuckMaster system) aluminum 6061-T6 is presently worth about $0.72 to $0.75 per pound delivered to a primary mill, which will not accept aluminum in chip form, wet or dry. According to Tim, primary aluminum mills typically buy scrap only from a select group of brokers, so usually a manufacturer’s only option is to sell its scrap to a scrap dealer, but PuckMaster says that it offers a brokerage service, via contract to market, and sells this material in puck form to primary mills or to direct export to eliminate the middleman scrap dealer network. Tim calculated that CHIPS could be making $0.25-$0.32 per pound more than he is collecting presently, by selling directly to the primary mill (Tim subtracted between $0.03 to $0.07 for the cost of shipping to the mill, and a brokerage fee). This would mean that the revenue for CHIPS, producing 100,000 pounds of aluminum per month, receiving $0.40 per pound presently, could be $320,000,00 more if the maximum $0.72 per pound was redeemed. However, it is important to realize that if CHIPS produces 100,000 pounds of aluminum chips per month not spun, a significant fraction of that weight comes from residual oil.

Another advantage of PuckMaster briquetting systems is their PLC display, which shows how many pucks have been produced. This helps insure that manufacturers get paid for the true amount of metal that they have recycled.

Also, PuckMaster and other briquetting systems reclaim a significant amount of coolant, which would otherwise have been lost. According to Tim, PuckMaster will remove approximately 18 gallons of cutting fluid per 1000 pounds of aluminum chips processed. Therefore, processing 1,200,000 pounds of aluminum per year will recover 21,600 gallons of coolant, which will be claimed for reuse every year. At a cost of $4.50 per gallon for coolant, CHIPS would recover $97,200 per year in coolant, which could be recycled and reused. This will be a significant increase from CHIPS’ current methods of oil conservation.

Bob Meyers, vice president of sales and marketing from Prab Inc., a company that produces both centrifuges and briquetting systems, has a different perspective. He said that the market for disposing aluminum chips and briquettes can be very regional, and that the most likely destinations for manufacturers to capitalize on their aluminum scrap in California are scrap dealers, who themselves briquette wet, clean chips for bulk shipment to Asia. He said that the value of chip to dealer is pretty much the same if it is brought in wrung or briquetted. Bob calculated that if CHIPS is getting $0.40 per pound for wet chips (10%-15% moisture by weight), he should get approximately $0.50 per pound if the chips are wrung (resulting in 2% or less residual moisture) since he will not be penalized for the moisture. Bob concurred with PuckMaster that any real premium price would be at the large volume broker level who is handling a specific, clean, mag- separated, alloy briquette ready for bulk export shipment. He said that in the case of CHIPS, a Prab Inc. chip processing system (shredder, wringer etc.) could be provided for about $110,000.00 vs. a Prab Inc. briquetter system (including pre-conditioning of the turnings and solids) for around $160,000.00.

So CHIPS, You’re cheating yourself out of money, and you don’t have to. Now that you have some knowledge, call Prab Inc. and PuckMaster and get the chips rolling (or maybe the puck). And tell ‘em Shop Doc sent ya.


Shop Doc – Bore-Dumb

Today’s Machining World Archive: September 2006 Vol.2, Issue 09

Dear Shop Doc,

I have problems at times with indexable boring bars when boring holes on my lathe. It seems the diameter or surface finish isn’t as good as I expect it to be, and for this job, I need to have consistent diameters due to some very close tolerances. I have tried cutting at the speed and feed parameters recommended in the tool catalogs, but most of the time the tool chatters until I slow it down. I have checked the centerline for proper alignment and believe it is set correctly. Shop Doc, I need some help quick !!!

Signed, “Stop The Bore-Dumb”

Dear Bore-Dumb,

I believe we can steer you toward a solution rather quickly. The two topics that we will focus on are length to diameter ratio and tool nose radius. These topics contribute to the majority of problems in boring applications.

Indexable type boring bars are made of basically three materials—steel, heavy metal and carbide. Some manufacturers are getting quite sophisticated with these tools with dampening features and special designs, but let’s keep this simple. A 1” diameter bar hanging out of a holder 4” in length is considered to be a 4 to 1 length to diameter ratio.

Steel bars can be used in relatively shallow depth bores such as 4 to 1 ratios. Heavy metal bars can be used in bores up to a 6 to 1 ratio. Carbide bars are used for bores up to an 8 to 1 ratio. The stiffness of the bar is the key factor. The bar must be capable of hanging out that far and still be sturdy enough to not have the cutting forces affect the tool adversely while in the cut. There is a cost involved—steel is cheapest, heavy metal is slightly more expensive and carbide is the most expensive.

Tool nose radius selection is crucial regardless of what bar you use. You need to know how much material you will leave for the tool nose radius on the insert you wish to use. The correct amount of material per side will be equal to or greater than the radius of the tool. This enables the material to be engaged completely around the radius of the tool. Always try to leave more material in the hole per side than what the selected tool nose radius is. If you need to use a larger radius, leave more stock per side. This engagement stabilizes the cutting forces of the tool and provides a smooth, consistent cutting action resulting in consistent diameters and tolerances.

Also, you might want to try out the wiper insert technology available today. It allows faster feed rates and better surface fi nish due to the design of the tool nose radius and clearances following the cutting tip.

One last thing to remember—Because the tip of the tool plays a huge role in creating successful bores, the center line of the tool must be as close to the machine center line as possible. If it’s not close, some really weird pressures can occur, giving you negative results.

Good Luck.

Jim Rowe
Application Specialists / Medical Accounts
Mahar Tool Supply, Warsaw, IN

Shop Doc – Loose Ends

Today’s Machining World Archive: August 2006 Vol.2, Issue 08

Dear Shop Doc,

I have a medium sized turret type 2-axis CNC lathe. I followed the tips regarding the laydown threading systems from last month, and my tool life increased a great deal by using the proper adjustable anvil. However, when using this style of threading system, I still seem to struggle with the smaller diameter threads.

The No-Go Gage we use goes on 2-3 turns when cutting threads under .500 in diameter. These parts are made of low carbon steel (like 1018), and I try to follow the recommended SFM provided by the tool manufacturer. With the coatings typically seen on these tools, it seems the SFM range can be very high, thus resulting in high RPMs. It seems that if we do slow down the RPM, the No-Go Gage doesn’t go on as far, but the tool life isn’t as good.

We have tried several thread cycle options such as “infeed” variations, depth of cut, etc., but it doesn’t seem to change the results.

I’ll take thread quality over tool life for now, but is there something I can do to get great results for both?

Loose Ends

Dear Loose Ends,

When you said your lathe was a medium sized turret type CNC, that was a great clue to your problem. When you mentioned smaller diameters, it was another great clue. I think you are starting too close to the thread starting point in your Z axis. When you do that, the turret can’t synchronize quickly enough with the spindle.

It’s not uncommon for turrets to travel at 300 IPM while threading. To synchronize that much weight with the spindle is difficult at those feed rates. Until the turret and spindle synchronize, the form of the thread may not be correct.

Here’s what you should do. Keep the RPM range the tool’s manufacturer recommends. Then, do the following equation: ((1/TPI) * RPM) / 400 = Start Point in Z.

The result of the equation equals the distance in front of the thread starting point where I suggest you start the Z axis in your threading cycle. By positioning the tool far enough in front of the thread for the spindle and turret to synchronize (calculated from the RPM to achieve the proper SFM for cutting the specific material with the specific grade of carbide), I’m confident you will achieve great thread quality as well as improved tool life.

Good luck!

Jim Rowe
Application Specialist/Medical Accounts
Mahar Tool Supply, Warsaw, IN.

Shop Doc – Dreading the Threading

Today’s Machining World Archive: July 2006 Vol.2, Issue 07

Dear Shop Doc,

For turning external threads on my CNC lathe, I am currently using a laydown threading system. I chose this style of threading system due to the option of using the partial profile or full profile type of inserts. The partial profile inserts give me the capability of achieving a range of threads per inch, so I don’t need an insert for every “pitch” of thread. For a larger production run, I purchased the full profile insert for the specific thread per inch – I wanted the entire job to be very consistent in the quality of the thread. The full profile insert is good because it can cut the major/minor/pitch diameters all at the same time. But at times, I have a problem with smaller diameter or coarse threads. It seems that the insert rubs on one side or the other of the 60° angle. I would guess 65% of the threads are produced with great success, but there are some threads with poor tool life and others that fit loosely on gauges even though the major diameter is correct. What can we do for the tool life and gauging issues I listed? I really think the laydown inserts are a great advantage overall.

Dreading the Threading

Dear Dreading,

These issues can be fixed in a couple of simple steps. You should see included with the holder, an anvil that the insert sets on. This is more than just a seat like a turning insert and holder sometimes has. This anvil is tapered to a certain angle. The standard anvil included with a laydown holder has 1.5° of taper.

These angles correspond with the required helix angle that a threading tool will need to have designed into it. You don’t want it to rub as it travels at the extreme “feed per revolution” to cut a screw thread feature.

For your problem with smaller diameter or coarse threads, the helix angle needs to be adjusted due to these 2 variations of thread dimensions. The helix angle has to be increased the closer the tool gets to the centerline of the machine. It also needs to be increased the more it moves per revolution, as that is required with coarse threads.

There are many angled anvils available that will achieve other helix angles besides 1.5°. The standard anvil, with 1.5° helix, will accommodate about 65% of threads, which is what you have encountered so far. Actually, by reviewing any of the tool manufacturers’ charts that tell you which anvil to use for specific threads, you will see that the 3/8-24 thread is the smallest to use the standard 1.5° anvil. I suggest you review the charts that the manufacturers provide in their technical sections and order a couple of the 2.5°, 3.5° and even 4.5° anvils. You will see a great improvement in the quality of the thread form. The gauging will be better, and the tool life will increase.

Good Luck,

Jim Rowe
Application Specialist / Medical Accounts,
Mahar Tool Supply, Warsaw, IN


Shop Doc – Flaking in the Threads with Brass Parts

Today’s Machining World Archive: June/July 2005 Vol.1, Issue 06

This month’s question about Wickman threading attachments comes from Bob Schneeberger of LD McCauley in Orchard Park, NY.

Shop Doc. this month is AL Seniw of New Lenox Machine Co., Inc. in Dwight IL. Al has been working on Wickmans for forty years and he has taught machining courses at community colleges.

BOB’S QUESTION:

Our client needs a thin walled brass part. My screw machine is a 1” 6-spindle Wickman. We were concerned about flaking in the threads with brass parts so I knew I had to come up with a cut thread. Our two options were thread milling and thread chasing. We couldn’t get the brass to gauge on our Johnson Gauges because of the flaking. I tried running a drill inside the part while I was thread rolling to avoid crushing of the part but it still didn’t gauge. I tried putting a thread chasing die on the machine and saw that the lead on the threads (or the pitch) was off. We had tracking problems. The thread die is 400 thousandths wide. It wasn’t tracking properly as it ran across the part.

We went through the machine and the chasing attachment looking for the cause of the problem. The attachment had just been rebuilt by a very reputable source. We did see a little play as the cams rode inside the thread chasing attachment. We eliminated the problems in the attachment but our pitch was still off. We are now going to try a thread milling attachment and a thread milling die. How can we eliminate the play in the thread? What caused it? Do you think this will solve the problem on the thin walled part?

Worn parts subject to “slopposis.”

AL’S ANSWER:

On a 1” Wickman, on the center drive shaft where the spindle speed gears are mounted, there is a coupling between the back half of the drive shaft and the front of the drive shaft. As the machines get old, and typically because people run hex material on these machines, they start to pound out the spline on the shaft and the coupling gets loose. This creates looseness or play in the machine, which I call “slopposis.” Toward the spindle end of the machine there is a drive key that engages the main spindle drive gear. That key can get pounded out and you get slopposis at that point. On each spindle there is a drive gear that engages the center drive gear. If the keyway on the spindle is pounded out that is another source of slopposis.

Thread chasing.

When you chase a thread with a single point thread chasing attachment you use a multiple tooth chaser. If for some reason there is play in the machine and the lead does not repeat itself, in other words it doesn’t track in the same place every time, you will get a very sharp crest on the major diameter of the thread. If you look at the thread on a comparator it will show a very sharp crest on the major diameter of the thread and you will notice a wide area at the minor diameter of the thread. What is happening is that the chaser is not following the lead of the thread, and the chaser is shaving the sides of the thread.

You should check the lead on the thread chasing attachment. Usually what I do is mount a dial indicator on the thread chasing head manually (without the machine running). I turn the spindle one complete revolution to advance the thread chasing attachment to the lead of thread. Now lets say it’s supposed to travel .062 per revolution – if you do this three or four times, the lead should be within a tenth or two at the end of it.

The attachments do wear out, but that is probably not the case with yours because your attachment was rebuilt by a reputable source. However often people will put the thread chasing cam on the attachment and forget to put the spacer washers on. This would result in the cam flopping back and forth, which will throw the lead off.

Thread milling for a 1” Wickman.

BOB’S QUESTION:

Do you think using a thread milling attachment and a thread milling die will solve the problem?

AL’S ANSWER:

Thread milling is a completely different system than thread chasing because the lead is built into the tool itself. There is probably less chance for slopposis to affect a thread mill than to affect a thread chaser because the load is constant all the way through the cut. On a single point thread chasing attachment every time that attachment makes a pass the machine is loaded and then unloaded. So thread milling could be the way to go, especially because it’s a thin walled part. The chip load per tooth is much lower with thread milling than with thread chasing.

Shop Doc – Holding Tight

Today’s Machining World Archive: June 2006, Vol.2, Issue 06

Dear Shop Doc,

I have a customer who needs me to hold a .0005 tolerance ID on a part made with C12L14. I’ve been having trouble getting the tolerance close enough on my 6 spindle Acme bar machine. I’ve been trying for days to ream it up to specs, but I’ve never had to go this close before and I’m starting to run out of patience. Are there any tricks to getting the tolerance right.

Holding Tight

There is a technique, which may help you hold your tolerance on the part, known as ballizing. It can actually give you tolerances as close as .0001-.0002. Ballizing isn’t anything new, but usually it is utilized after machining, when you have a ball that you press through a through hole to size the ID.

What you can do is this; First, ream your part the best that you can, and then afterward, silver solder a carbide ball to the end of a shank and put it in one of your open spindles–probably your fourth position spindle on a six spindle Acme. At the same time, for this to function properly as you’re sealing everything off, you will need a little hole that will go through at an angle that doesn’t interfere with the OD of the part, to let air behind there escape as you’re ballizing the part. Then run your operation. It’s just in and out, so it doesn’t limit your cycle time of making the part. You can now complete the part on the screw machine and hold a very close tolerance, usually getting better than a 10 – 6 micro inch finish on the hole.

Things to remember

The balls are made of carbide, so you will have to experiment a little bit with size because what you’re really doing is displacing material, and it will spring back. So if you would have to hold, for example, closer than .0005 tolerance, then you will need to experiment with two or three different balls to find the result you are looking for. Also, like anything, the balls are only as good as how close you ream. In other words, the reamed hole would need to be held close to keep consistency on the ball that you’re working with. They both work a little bit together. So if you had a hole that was varying .002 before you ballized it, I still think you could ballize it and hold it within .0005. If you wanted it any closer, you would probably have to ream within .001. Then, I think you would be able to hold within .0002 or better. Also, you need to make sure that you are using, the same gauging that your customer is using.

Good luck!

Henry Bradlock
St. Joe Tool Co., Bridgman, Mich

Shop Doc – Tapped Out

Today’s Machining World Archive: May 2007, Vol.3, Issue 05

Dear Shop Doc,

We can’t accurately control the depth of the tap on our CNC Swiss lathe. The type of component we are making has a blind hole that goes .200” deep. The threads are 6-32 and need to have a fully formed thread of a minimum depth of .185”. The tool is a thread forming tap with a blunt point. We are using a Floating Tap Collet, and we program about 10 percent slower than the tap pitch, stop the spindle, slight dwell, then feed off at 100 percent of the tap pitch. We’ve tried many variations of this method with different spindle speeds, different floating collets and different tool positions, however, we still cannot accurately control the depth. One of the issues of not being able to control the depth is that we “bottom out” frequently and break the tap. Down time, tool cost and scrap material is eating into our profit margin for this job.

Tapped Out

Dear Out,

I can relate to your pain. I know how it feels to quote a job and not be able to manufacture at the production rate you thought you would be able to achieve. Tapping on CNC Swiss Lathes used to be fairly adventurous. It appears you have done your homework in selecting the correct tap style. The problem you are having is caused by the floating collet. It’s assumed that because you are machining on a CNC machine that you have absolute control of all of the dimensions, but when it comes to tapping with floating collets, you don’t have as much control as you think. What is happening is that when the part engages the tap, it is not starting at the same position along the polar axis (C-axis) every time. This is critical to how many threads are produced based on the Z-axis movement. For example, if your part begins to tap at 12 o’clock, which starts to pull the collet because of the 10 percent slower feed, you’ll get one depth, but if it starts 180 degrees later at 6 o’clock, you’ll get a different depth. With floating collets, this is the variable you live with and in most applications it’s ok.

For this particular application I would go to Rigid Tapping. Rigid tapping is something relatively new to CNC Swiss-type machines. Some of older CNC Swiss machines are not capable of this process, but with more manufacturers offering C-axis as a standard option, rigid tapping is a great solution. Rigid tapping has been around for many years on most CNC Lathes & Milling Centers. The programming of it is fairly simple, and you don’t have to worry about using any special collets. Check your machine manual to see if your machine is capable.

David Cogswell
Director, Precision Machining Operations
Bal Seal Engineering, Medical Products Group

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