Whenever we finish up a long running job we find that our headstock collet cap is stuck tight on the spindle. It takes a considerable amount of time and effort to remove it. Is there any way to prevent this in the future?
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Headstock collet cap is stuck tight on the spindle
(8 posts) (6 voices)-
Posted 2 years ago #
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Whenever you change over the machine, it’s a good idea to put a small amount of anti-seize grease on the threads of your headstock collet cap as well as your guide bushing adjusting nut. Anti-seize grease will help prevent the threads from sticking. It’s also not a bad idea to put a small dab on the screw threads of your turning holders. It helps speed up insert changes and helps prevent stripping out the hex and Torx heads.
Posted 2 years ago # -
We have used an anti-seize grease on the g.b. nut. This proves effective in most cases. The only time it has been problematic is when you are creating a lot of small fines from either milling or slotting. These fines will adhere to the grease and make a paste. This paste will dry, inturn making the guide bushing nut extremely difficult to remove.
Posted 2 years ago # -
So then what do try if that happens?
Posted 2 years ago # -
Not much you can do except take time to work the nut back and forth until it comes off. As the nut is loosens try using a bit of compressed air to blow off some of the residual grease and fines.
You can look into a sealed guide bushing. We have found that they are just too expensive to justify the purchase, as this is not an everyday problemPosted 2 years ago # -
I've had the same trouble with Headstock caps too, but because the techs here all think everything from drill spindles, tool holders bolts and headstck caps need to be tightened with a 6ft bar on the wrench!!
As for stuck headstock caps -try locking the spindle-as in for milling and use your spanner with a rubber or brass mallet to loosen.
For guide bushings can you use silicone to seal them ? I don't use any grease on collets or bushings for the reasons stated. To clean them a little kero or WD works fine here.
TRR.Posted 2 years ago # -
I've had the same problems. My fix has been: First don't over tighten it to start with, if your grunting it's already too tight. Second to easily remove the cap put the wrenchs on so you can squeeze them together with one hand out at the end of the handles. I use my left. And with a mallet in the other hand, hit the cap wrench, down near the cap. Do not hit the wrench on the spindle, let the mass of the spindle help you, this way your trying to turn the cap with the jar from the mallet not the spindle. This is the same as TRRINO said to do but I don't like to put the shock on the spindle lock, the same guys that over tighten thing typically use oversize hammers for the job. Thats just my opinion,to each their own.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I'm not a big fan of using the spindle lock either. Especially if it's an indexing spindle with a shot pin. Over time the shot pin can bend, break, or at the very least become misaligned which will cause spindle index alarms.
Clean and grease everything when changing over. Tighten a reasonable amount, and usually the cap won't stick.
Although years ago I worked at a place that had a Citizen F16 where the collet nut always stuck after long runs. The spindle used to get quite hot. Eventually the bearings in the spindle failed and the heat problem got a lot better with the new bearings. As a result the cap didn't get stuck as hard or as often.
Posted 2 years ago #
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